GE upgrade with GTE parts
#1
Posted 27 July 2005 - 12:45 PM
What would be my major issues when attempting the following?
(What haven’t I taken into consideration / is it feasible?)
There’s a couple of GTEs getting sold as parts around the place, and it got me thinking.
If I bought the fuel rail (injectors included), manifold, turbos (w/ wastegate etc), air induction tracts, radiator and head gasket from a wrecked Supes, could I wire an ex-RZ ECU with the GE harness and boost away?
Would the GE rocker cover (with the cut away for the GE manifold etc) make a difference? Would I need the GTE version?
How about the inlet plenum? Are they the same?
There’s already an Xtreme heavy duty 5 button clutch in there, so the weak point in the drive train would be the box – how would it cope with the power upgrade?
The exhaust would be restrictive till I could afford to swap it, but should still do the trick in the meantime.
Safety wise, I’d still have the smaller brake rotors, but I’ve upgraded them to vented/slotted DBAs with EBC greenstuff / blackstuff pads already…
Just curious as to the feasibility of the above.
(Yeah – I know dropping a Supra GTE and ECU in would be a lot easier. As would be buying an ex-Aristo GTE and throwing a $50 Supra sump on it…..)
Cheers for the help SA Supra-heroes!
#2
Posted 27 July 2005 - 01:05 PM
#3
Posted 27 July 2005 - 01:09 PM
Another boost scheme foiled.
This isn't over, you here me TT people?!? This ISN'T OVER! 8)
#4
Posted 27 July 2005 - 07:45 PM
Loco said:
Ha-ha-ha >> that made me laugh out loud !!
Good one Loco in the Poco :lol:
Gaven
#5
Posted 27 July 2005 - 08:04 PM
Don't worry mate, you'll get there :)
#6
Posted 27 July 2005 - 09:09 PM
I stand by what i said then!
just put a 1J in.
#7
Posted 28 July 2005 - 08:40 AM
#9
Posted 28 July 2005 - 12:46 PM
<bows>
#10
Posted 03 August 2005 - 05:42 PM
#11
Posted 29 July 2007 - 09:41 PM
i believe that t51rspl had a TT engine, T51rspl turbo and TRD widebody (copy) kit for sale in early June...
#12
Posted 29 July 2007 - 10:26 PM
the cat mite be out the bag soon he he ;)
i am coming for you polak, and Gav
#15
Posted 30 July 2007 - 06:26 PM
We are planning on doing this for my soarer. I will keep updated got 3.3l 1.5jz!!!
#16
Posted 13 August 2007 - 03:34 PM
Also does anyone have a repair manual for the MKIV, i've got this manual thing from the US for a 96 which includes both NA and TT but doesn't really have too much useful info for pulling one apart and putting it back together. It has some useful info if anyone wants it. It also has some info on the MKIII but i haven't looked at that cos its no use to me.
I'm happy to post it somewhere or something, what ever the normal thing to do is.
#17
Posted 13 August 2007 - 04:32 PM
Failing that, ebay could be a source of a suitable ex manifold.
Then look at masterpower turbos - garret cores, brazilian made for the rest, gaining a good reputation at a fraction of the cost of a garret.
Use a smallish turbo & aim for 12psi or less boost.
Add water injection, triggered by a boost controller, not a hobbs switch.
Use stock intake, just spin the TB in a lathe & cut a locator on the snout so the intake pipe doesn't blow off.
Leave the rest of the motor 100% stock, it'll cope provided it is not run into detonation - hence the water injection.
ECU - NFI, can the stock ecu be completely remapped? - if not a budget microtech will do the job.
You'll have a cheapish & effective setup that'll suprise a lot of people with it's boost & throttle response & ability to get off the mark sharpish.
Cheers
TK
#18
Posted 14 August 2007 - 04:26 PM
so i have a 7mge motos in my a70
what modulation should i do first to this beast waiting to be unleased!!!
#20
Posted 15 August 2007 - 08:05 PM
JenkMA70, on Aug 14 2007, 04:26 PM, said:
so i have a 7mge motos in my a70
what modulation should i do first to this beast waiting to be unleased!!!
Geez, 7m's, I haven't touched one of them for years!
Biggest issue is (obviously) head gasket sealing, they have a nasty habit of corroding the top of the block - they almost all do it.
The only permanent solution is to completely strip the engine, mill the deck properly (poor factory finish is the culprit), machine the piston crowns to match the amount taken off the deck, then pop the short motor back together with freshly honed bores + new rings & bearings.
Next up is the head, for a budget job you'd just check the valves are sealing ok, clean out all the carbon & muck & pop it back together with a freshly milled face & new stem seals.
With a bigger budget a performance multi-angle valve grind & pocket port will improve flow quite a bit.
She'd go back together with an mls head gasket & either new aftermarket bolts or ARP studs.
To turbo it there are several options.
1 High comp, low boost with a stock engine as described in my last post.
2 Lower comp with thicker head gasket - my least favorite method, too much piston to head clearance (squish height) makes the engine prone to detonation.
3 Lower comp by machining piston crowns - best method on a budget, the pistons usually have to be machined when you deck the block anyway, may as well skim some metal out of the dish to lower comp while you're there - good for moderate boost, limited by the strength of the factory NA piston.
4 - Lower comp with turbo pistons, either genuine or aftermarket pistons - there's some decent stock replacement aftermarket cast turbo pistons available for about $240 for a set, or, if you're feeling rich, fork for some forgies.
I don't know if the standard turbo manifolds bolt up to the NA head - I've never had the 2 side by side to compare, if they do then the rest is piss easy, if not then it's still not hard.
TK


















