Soarer track car LJZ wants to see new threads...
#21
Posted 20 January 2012 - 01:56 PM
#22
Posted 08 February 2012 - 06:45 PM
Nice job- it even has all the mod cons like idle control etc. Pretty flash for a race car, LOL. Has a completely new loom built from scratch, new plugs, new coils, new electrical connectors, everything.
Unfortunately I cannot get it in to be tuned due to the drags. Seems everyone needs a tune this week. Hope to drop it off on Friday and just leave it there so they can get to it when they have some time. Shame, there is a practice day this Saturday I had my hopes on.
Pulled a third door from the mould tonight. Might go trim it and test fit it seeing as I have the car home all week.
#23
Posted 08 February 2012 - 08:33 PM
#24
Posted 09 February 2012 - 06:00 PM
#25
Posted 09 February 2012 - 08:50 PM
#26
Posted 10 February 2012 - 12:51 PM
#27
Posted 10 February 2012 - 02:17 PM
#28
Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:50 PM
I placed the mould of the door skin back over the original door to compare, and what do you know, they are different shapes. In my rush, or the cool weather, the fibreglass may not have been fully cured when I cracked it. I will let the door sit in the mould for a while, and then add more glass and reinforcement to it. This will also allow me to tidy up the edges of the mould that I am not happy with. I will also add a rib or flange to it to provide torsional stiffness to the mould.
It is a slow and steady project.
The car has gone into Morpowa for a tune. They are booked solid, but were happy to take the car so they could tune it when the opportunity presesnts itself. I am flat out with work now so it suits me to not have the car as a distraction, LOL.
#29
Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:18 PM
Great work getting so far along with the Haltech install. Any idea when you might get it back from morpowa or you really don't mind.
Bummer about the door molds, I wouldn't have thought that the curing time would have made that much of a difference to the shape. Shows what I know.
Keep up the good work, I look forward to seeing this project evolve
#30
Posted 27 February 2012 - 09:19 PM
Stoked with the outcome, but scared at the costs involved.
#31
Posted 27 February 2012 - 10:18 PM
You have done a top job on it so far, I look forward to seeing the next chapter.
Having the time off im sure you will dream up some cool more ideas for fiber glassing, who knows maybe by the time you hit the track you may have lost another hundred kilos lol
#32
Posted 28 February 2012 - 11:58 AM
237rwkw should be pretty good on the track Ben so I imagine you will be pretty happy with that figure from the 1J :)
Great catching up at the Cruise and having a quick chat. I hope your lad enjoyed the day and didnt get to bored. Red Soarer looked VERY tidy mate :notworthy:
Let us know when a track day is happening and maybe we can have a group cruise to come down and show some support :friends: That would be 2 good reasons for a cruise I reckon.
Cheers
Darren
#33
Posted 28 February 2012 - 06:43 PM
Cruising is not my thing, but due to a few worried comments about participation from people out my way I decided to get along seeing as my original commitments fell through.
Looked like a good turnout to me.
The young fella loved 'navigating' using the map and checking off all the suburb/villages etc. Maybe that second group needed a navigator to look at the map. My GPS was useless as it wanted to go the opposite direction at almost every turn.
I have no idea about power figures because I never dynoed the stocker. The 1JZ was rated at the 206kw (but independantly claimed to be 220kw) in Japan on their decent fuel when new 20 years ago. I think nearly 240 at the rears is a decent increase. Morpowa know about JZ engines in race car environments so it should be 'safe' as well. The AFRs are in the 11-12:1 range so they did not go chasing big numbers like a dyno queen or drag car that only has to survive 10 seconds of load.
I will get the fibreglass doors on, so there should be about 30-50kg saving there. I am keen to weld something, so I might create a much simpler and lighter hinge arrangement based on a gate hinge. Be nice to just lift the doors on and off rather than undo bolts, LOL.
#34
Posted 03 March 2012 - 09:16 AM
So I now have a deadline to work to and what looks like a decent track day to sort it all out. I have a new higher temp compound pad from Intima I want to try, the front bar, bonnet vent, and hopefully fibreglass doors to try. Not to mention the newfound power. I hope to drop below 1:20 if it all goes well. Only drama is the tyres have been sitting for a year. They have been stored in a cool dark place so hopefully they haven't deteriated too much. Can't afford to replace them due to the cash spent on the Haltech, wiring and tune.
#35
Posted 11 March 2012 - 07:54 AM
Just going to put the car up on the stands so I can do an alignment. I haven't checked the alignment since the bingel, but seeing as I went into a sand trap and did not hit anything too hard, I am hoping it isn't to far out.
Then it is change all fluids seeing as it has pretty much sat still for the last eight months.
#36
Posted 11 March 2012 - 10:36 AM
ben12a, on 11 March 2012 - 07:54 AM, said:
haha love that.
Do you have pictures of the doors on?
Let us know how you go with the alignment, im interested to see if the stack did knock it out, from the vid it didn't look like it would have done to much as you were just headed in a straight line
#37
Posted 11 March 2012 - 05:19 PM
I have put the race wheels (JZA80 17s) back on and got it up on the stands. I seem to have nearly 4mm toe in at the front (I usually run 4mm toe out) but other than that every thing looks good.Current specs:
Front- 3 deg camber, 350mm ride height, 4mm total toe in
Rear- 1.5-2 deg camber, 335mm ride height, 4mm total toe in.
I am in two minds as to what to do. If this is how the car was when I ran the 1:21.6 then clearly it liked the toe in at the front. Because I use string lines you have to measure everything and do the maths to figure it out. It is very easy to confuse toe in and toe out.
Everything I know about front engined rear drive cars says I want toe out on the front for good turn in, and toe out the back in to tame oversteer.
Toe is easy to adjust in the front end, so I might give it some toe out, but I am tempted to run it how it is just to find out how it goes.
#38
Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:17 PM
Most of the cars are Mazda Rx-7s and 8s, Evos, and the odd skyline and s platform. I have the only Toyota.
If I do all sessions I should be on the track 8 times through the day, but I have to be somewhere else in the late afternoon and might miss the last one.
I am aiming to shake the car down, and then go for a lap time. I also have a new set of pads from Intima they want me to try; their 'Type D' pad that needs to be around 250 degrees before it is at its optimum performance. It is a very race oriented pad that handles up to 850 degrees of punishment and has a higher grip coefficient. I have been happy with the lower spec pad, but seeing as the price was too good, I said I'd try a set. :thanku: I might swap the pads out halfway through the day and see how they go. It is supposed to be over 30 degrees ambient, so they might be needed after 3 or 4 straight hard laps.
#40
Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:56 PM

















