[ben12a]

As some of you might be aware, I tore the front off the track car last time out a Mallala (July 11)



I have all but completed a new totally custom front bar, splitter and diffuser for the front end. Just need to sort out the brake duct routing.

I have now received a set of stock donor doors and have begun to fabricate my own fibreglass lighweight doors.

[LJZ]

haha awesome!!
I remember when you did this a few months back, I was wondering how you were going with your fiberglassing.
Good to hear that you have got most of it sorted.
How long before you will have it back out on the track?

[ben12a]

My end of the deal is pretty much done. I have fitted the new high flow turbos, fitted the shiny pipes, fabricated new ducting and fitted an alloy radiator and have new coilpacks, and connector clips ready to go in. I still need to remount the coolant temp sensor somewhere.

I am waiting for Morpowa to call me and bring the car in to get the Haltech fitted and the new loom made. After that they need to tune it and I should be right. I want to get out there in January, but it depends entirely on Morpowa and their schedule.

[LJZ]

AMAZING!!!
Which haltech are you getting?? 2000 platinum?? I was looking at one for mine but now i am back at tafe money doesn't permit :(
Where did you go to get your turbo's highflowed?
I am very keen to see this car of yours, next time you are going out to the track post up on the site and I will try make it out to see ya

[ben12a]

I bought the Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. It is a lot of computer for a track car, but the large number of inputs/outputs, and data logging sold me. Plus quite a few of the quick cars are switching across to it, so it must be OK.

The turbos were highflowed by Glenn, at Munroe Racing Turbochargers in Brisbane. He has a website with 2J highflows so I emailed him and started talking about the CT12a's. We were going to try converting the CT12As to ball bearing but figured the gains would be very minimal for such small turbos.

[LJZ]

When I was looking into a new ECU the 2000 platinum stood out as being a front runner. I cant remember they guys name at morpowa but he is the one with the 2JZ 180SX. He said he swears by it and got a huge response from his engine.
It must have been you I was talking to on the forums about highflowing the turbos, you recommended I look at the munroe website at their highflow options, pretty competitive prices. This was all around the time that I was beginning my tafe studies so money just dried up.
I think I am going to just shelve the supra project for the next couple of years until I finish my studies and land a descent paying job.
Then I might even go down the single turbo track, T78 would be v nice with a whole new fuel system and electronics to boot.

Let me know when you have the haltech installed and what kind of dyno numbers you getting, I am very interested to see the combo of the ECU and the highflows. Darren from our club has his highflowed and I think he is pushing 320kw.

Keep up the good work

[ben12a]

Simon is the guy at Morpowa.

I am not chasing a number for the car, but will c ertainly know what it ends up being. Because it is a circuit racer I am looking for a good spread of torque and a more power, but not at the expense of reliability.

A steep power curve looks good on paper, but is hard to drive and puts a lot of strain on driveline components. Been ther and done that in the Rx-7. My stock powered Soarer is significantly faster around the same circuit than my peaky powered, and 400kg lighter Rx-7 used to be.

[ben12a]

Car: 1993 JZZ30 Soarer

Engine: 1JZGTE, stock internals, high flowed CT12a Turbos, Custom dump pipes, custom exhaust 3” into twin 2.5” with Trust straight through mufflers, Super spark coil plugs, Just Jap delta fin intercooler, Derale oil cooler, HKS pod (about to be swapped back to modified factory airbox), Apexi RSM, Greddy BCD.

Driveline: Excedy Sports tuff clutch, stock R154, Torsen LSD.

Suspension: HSD HR coilovers, Selby adjustable sway bars, Ikeya Formula adjustable UCA, Modified LCA mounts, Polyurethane bushes, custom front strut brace, custom 13 point rollcage.

Brakes: JZA 80 4/2 piston brakes, stock Toyota rotors, Intima SR6300 pads, custom ducting.

Wheels/tyres: JZA80 17x8 and 17x9.5” rims, Toyo R888 Semi slicks. BA XR 17x8” rims and second hand whatever tyres for motorkhana etc.

Bodywork: Custom front bar/airdam/splitter with modified V8 supercar front diffusers, vertex copy side skirts, Custom rear diffuser, unknown twin element rear wing, braced boot lid, lightened doors, Lexan side and rear windows, perspex sunroof replacement panel, custom vented front guards.

Currently working on: Fibreglass doors, fibreglass bonnet, more custom work on guards, redesign of side skirts, relocation of water temp sender unit.

Currently waiting: Haltech PS2000 installation

Youtube channel: My link

[ma61turbo]

LJZ, on 05 January 2012 - 06:04 AM, said:

Then I might even go down the single turbo track, T78 would be v nice with a whole new fuel system and electronics to boot.

T78 is huuge and will be very peaky. Dyno queen only, too big IMO.

ben12a, on 05 January 2012 - 06:37 AM, said:

A steep power curve looks good on paper, but is hard to drive and puts a lot of strain on driveline components. Been ther and done that in the Rx-7. My stock powered Soarer is significantly faster around the same circuit than my peaky powered, and 400kg lighter Rx-7 used to be.

Agreed, all about area under the curve.

ben12a, on 05 January 2012 - 07:07 AM, said:

custom ducting.

Extremely interested in seeing what you've done for this. What brake fluid do you use? I've got Motul RBF 660 in mine(seeing as 600 seems to be discontinued) but doing a run down Greenhill the other day testing suspension settings I ended up with a very squishy brake pedal down the bottom, so not sure if there is something better to use. I've not had any issues at Mallala however.

[ben12a]

I run plain old Castrol response super dot 4. I keep it clean, and swap it regularly. Depending on the time between events, or how hard the last event was I do a complete flush and new fluid every time.

If I had two time attack style days inside a month, I would keep the fluid, due to the small number of laps completed (usually ony 5 or 6 on the limit laps in a day). If it is a speed off the street/practice style day then it gets changed before and after because you might turn 50-70 laps on these sort of days. Motorkhana etc- whatever is in there will do.

Never had an issue with fluid fade in this car with the castrol, however was boiling brake fluid in the Rx-7 using another 'performance' brand of fluid at hidden valley.

With the ducting- in the last bar I had fibreglass ducts from the front bar out to the wheel well, and then rubber scat tube to custom sheetmetal backing plates. All very simple. On this new bar the diffusers are much mmore aggressive, and there is a lot less room to play with. My initial plan failed dismally as the simply wouldn't fit between the diffuser and the intercooler piping. I am waiting for a bolt of inspiration to hit me as to how I will do it this time. The 3" ducts are in the front bar, but I need to get the air from here to the scat tubing. It has to be solid and part of the undertray or bar as ther is no way to get in there and connect rubber hose everytime.

[LJZ]

ma61turbo, on 05 January 2012 - 10:09 AM, said:

T78 is huuge and will be very peaky. Dyno queen only, too big IMO.

This is a project that will end up taking years to actually happen.
It would be good to have a chat to you at some stage about possible options, Im really dont know all that much about turbos. anything I could learn about practicality and application would be much appreciated.
The only reason I really thought of the T78 is because I have seen examples around where only a fuel system upgrade and ECU needs to be upgraded and internals can stay as they are. but I bet there are a dozen other options out there.

[ma61turbo]

ben12a, on 05 January 2012 - 10:27 AM, said:

Never had an issue with fluid fade in this car with the castrol, however was boiling brake fluid in the Rx-7 using another 'performance' brand of fluid at hidden valley.

Which brand?

ben12a, on 05 January 2012 - 10:27 AM, said:

With the ducting- in the last bar I had fibreglass ducts from the front bar out to the wheel well, and then rubber scat tube to custom sheetmetal backing plates. All very simple. On this new bar the diffusers are much mmore aggressive, and there is a lot less room to play with. My initial plan failed dismally as the simply wouldn't fit between the diffuser and the intercooler piping. I am waiting for a bolt of inspiration to hit me as to how I will do it this time. The 3" ducts are in the front bar, but I need to get the air from here to the scat tubing. It has to be solid and part of the undertray or bar as ther is no way to get in there and connect rubber hose everytime.

Got any pictures of your old setup? I doubt I need anything like that yet, but would be interesting to see how you did it. Appears to be a reasonable amount of room under the Supra, but I have the active front lip which would probably get in the way of anything.

LJZ, on 05 January 2012 - 04:20 PM, said:

This is a project that will end up taking years to actually happen.
It would be good to have a chat to you at some stage about possible options, Im really dont know all that much about turbos. anything I could learn about practicality and application would be much appreciated.
The only reason I really thought of the T78 is because I have seen examples around where only a fuel system upgrade and ECU needs to be upgraded and internals can stay as they are. but I bet there are a dozen other options out there.

There's probably better qualified people than me. Pretty much any single turbo will go on with only fuel system and ECU upgrades on the 2jz. All depends on what you want from the car. IMO GT35 is probably the best option for all out response/driveability.

[ben12a]

I can't remember the brand, hence why I left it out. I would hate to say it was brand 'X' and draw all the hate. The guys at Autobarn (the shop in Darwin was the centre of the performance world back then AND they were a pretty handy bunch) talked it up as the answer to all braking performance. I reckon it might have been good stuff under the right conditions, but it seemed to be way to hydroscopic for Darwin humidity as the boiling point seemed pretty low on the track.

I know a lot more now, and understand more about what I am asking of components and fluids. This is why I believe the cheaper option is good for me as I can afford to swap it out regularly.

Some pics are in my build thread here: Build thread

Unfortunately I do not have a lot of pics as it was a rush job to get ready for the Toyoshow and then I crashed it on its first outing (pics further down...)

[ben12a]

finished the mould of the drivers door. Outside was easy, inner skeleton/skin was bloody fiddly. Now to sit back and wait for it to fully cure.

Need to summons up some motivation to start the passenger door.

I have also come across o a bonnet vent that will suit my purposes so I may also be doing a fibreglass bonnet in the near future.

Gotta make fibreglass while the sun shines... :crazy: :blink:

[ben12a]

Made the passenger outer skin door mould yesterday, will do the inner skeleton tomorrow. Weather dependant I should have my first fibreglass door laid down at the end of the week. Some cool days ahead, and it really needs to be well into the twenties for the fibreglass to go off properly.

No kids home Thursday, ao I might go for broke and see if I can get one of each started. Will need to do the inner skeletons and let them cure before doing the outer skins as I will be bonding the completed inner skeleton to the skin as part of the layup for extra, super, heavy duty, high strength. (hopefully, never done this before)

[ben12a]

Drivers dorr went on the car OK. Some fitment issues, but as a door, it works with all the factory hardware.

Passenger door is sitting in the mould, might pull it tomorrow and do the final lugs for the door handles etc.

Spent half of today pulling the wiring loom out of the engine bay ready for the haltech install. I might make a killing selling all the wiring to a copper salvage place. Man, there is a lot of wiring...

[LJZ]

It would be interesting to get a statistic on actually how much wiring is in the 2JZGTE setup, as in meters. probably enough to get to darwin haha.
I had a look at your thread on the fiberglassing on the other forum, very nice work. Did you used to work in fabrication?? or just a hobby.
Either way I would love to see how you do it, something I have always been interested in but never had any idea how to go about doing it.
Good luck with the second door and loom

[ben12a]

Apart from woodwork and tech drawing in year 10 I have never had any training or experience in fabrication. Motorsport is just so damn expensive for the enthusiast. Plus it wouldn't be a hobby if someone else was doing all the work...

Whilst being relatively computer naieve, I have joined a number of forums, searched youtube, googled, and hung around enough pit bays asking annoying questions to pick up enough to work out what I want to do, and then find a way to do it.

I also get good help/advice. The roll cage for example took ages, as I had to learn to weld by doing practice welds and then taking pictures and sending them to a professional roll cage fabricator. Once he was happy I could weld to a good standard he sent me his design for a CAMS Spec sports sedan cage and all the CDW steel. The CAMS inspector passed it first go, but I never bothered to certify it, because it didn't fit any available category. Plus I didn't want a log book given all the mods I still want to do.

Come and have a look this weekend as discussed in the other thread.

PS second door came out of the mould this morning looking better than the first, so at least I am learning!

[LJZ]

Thats awesome!
Im the same, I try to do everything I can when it comes to my supra.
Most of the fun is trying to work out the problems yourself and making the final product. Not sure if you have seen my thread on the custom downpipe I did with my brother (who is a boiler maker, VERY HANDY). basicly couldn't find anything on the market to suit so built it ourselves.
http://www.sasupra.c...h__1#entry41812

I look forward to seeing yor handy work on sunday, Im sure I will go home with loads of ideas and want to start pulling my supra down again haha

[ben12a]

nice work on the front pipe. Looks as good as anything you cn buy from Japan. I did the same, but mild steel, and MIG. Not as neat, no cat, but does the job for less than a hundred bucks.

I laid the stock pipe on the ground, chalked around it, and cut and shut 3" mandrel bends and straight pipe until it lined up.