[mark55]

I have recently had my 2JZ NA auto serviced and am experiencing a slight problem with the auto kickdown adjustment. Considering the money that I paid for the service I would have expected the car to run perfectly and will take it back if nobody here can give me a quick tip on solving the problem.

When I got the car back the gear changes were jerky and when I rang the mechanic he told me to adjust the kickdown cable back to it's original position (easily identifiable on the thread of the cable adjustment). When I did this the idle speed increased to about 1100 rpm - not a good thing, but the gear changes were smoother at least.

I've now balanced the adjustment so that the gear changes are a bit smoother, but idle speed is still around 850-900 rpm. Prior to the service the engine idled smoothly at about 750 rpm and the gear changes were virtually unnoticable.

It's a little inconvenient to take the car back to the mechanic (supposedly one of Adelaide's best), so I was thinking that if there is something simple that I can do myself, it will be easier all round.

So if you have any ideas please let me know.

Mark

[JDNakaBomb]

Try disconnecting the battery. Might be the computer has adjusted.

I'd take it back to them - They should have noticed it in the test drive after the work (if they bothered) You shouldn't have to mess around with it, otherwise you may as well have done the job yourself. . .

I know its the mk3 tech, but its pretty much (99.9%) the same box;
http://www.cygnusx1....tion=AT&Page=19

[Yiros]

Kickdown cable? Where did you take the car?

The A340E on the JZA80 has an electronic kick down switch (switch located under the accelerator pedal) and not a cable. I installed one in my manual for an aftermarket feature I have yet to wire up.

So you messed around with the accelerator cable/grub screw adjustment to increase idle? Idle on the 2J is controlled electronically and should not be adjusted manually (that is what the idle stepper motor is for). Not sure what this has to do with gear changes. :blink:

If the gear changes are jerky – this is likely to be a control issue. If it was fine before the car went in, then chances are the second speed sensor may have been accidentally disconnected. The ECU would have no idea what speed the car is doing hence having problems changing gears smoothly by not reducing torque at the shift points.

First try resetting your ECU. To do this simply disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and let the car idle with no accessories running (i.e. A/C etc) for one minute then switch off. If that doesn't help, then take it back.

[--Golli]

I think this problem is common when the speed signal refiner (if thats the word for it...)

what happens is that one of the speed sensors sends its signal to the odometer, where its then refined to "nicer" signal so to speak, for other electronics to read. IIRC when this screws up it can send a few things into dis-array, auto shifting included.
Yiros is most likely on the money as it happened after it when in, and JDN is dead right, they should have picked this up on the test drive if they did one.

If you want more info on the speed sensor, it's on the national forums somewhere, there is a write up about it. Maybe another member on here that actually uses SF.AU and has an A80 can point you in the right direction.

[mark55]

Yiros, on 10 January 2010 - 09:37 PM, said:

Kickdown cable? Where did you take the car?

The A340E on the JZA80 has an electronic kick down switch (switch located under the accelerator pedal) and not a cable. I installed one in my manual for an aftermarket feature I have yet to wire up.

So you messed around with the accelerator cable/grub screw adjustment to increase idle? Idle on the 2J is controlled electronically and should not be adjusted manually (that is what the idle stepper motor is for). Not sure what this has to do with gear changes. :blink:

If the gear changes are jerky – this is likely to be a control issue. If it was fine before the car went in, then chances are the second speed sensor may have been accidentally disconnected. The ECU would have no idea what speed the car is doing hence having problems changing gears smoothly by not reducing torque at the shift points.

First try resetting your ECU. To do this simply disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and let the car idle with no accessories running (i.e. A/C etc) for one minute then switch off. If that doesn't help, then take it back.

The service was done by Brenton at 4snMore. When I described what was going on over the phone, he was the one that told me to reposition what he called the kickdown cable (the one in front of the accelerator cable). I too was under the impression that the kickdown is under the accelerator pedal and was relying on his expertise to advise me. They also did a service on the transmission, so maybe they buggered something up then.

It seems as though I didn't get my $1,450 worth for the service and I'm somewhat disappointed, so I guess I'll have to take it back.

Thanks to all those who responded.

[Yiros]

I am sure Brenton will sort it out for you!

Sounds like a bit of confusion between how the problem was described with the fix provided?

[JDNakaBomb]

I believe that the 2jzge does have a kickdown cable, where as the 2jzgte version does not, but rather uses TPS to control line pressure.

Speaking from when I sourced an auto trans - Couldn't use the TT(GTE) model without problems, but the NA (GE) works. I supposedly have a 2jzge auto trans behind my 1JZ (pulled it off the 2JZGE myself), and it has a cable. Correct me if you can prove me wrong though (and a post of the different trans to supra models won't do it - There are alot of versions of the a34*e with small differences and bugger all people actually have correct info on them IMHO)

Not using it as fact, and have only read the first line. but;
http://soarercentral...html?1262854639

And none of that changes my stance, take it back to them!

[Yiros]

JDNakaBomb, on 11 January 2010 - 06:09 PM, said:

I believe that the 2jzge does have a kickdown cable, where as the 2jzgte version does not, but rather uses TPS to control line pressure.

I stand corrected.

Another big difference between the NA and TT!

[mark55]

Problem solved!

I got Sinergy to check it when I had some other work done and all they had to do was clean the throttle body, idle speed port and the idle speed controller - something that I thought would have been done in the major service!

P.S. If you ever want to replace your shockies, Sinergy are craploads cheaper than anyone else.

[rabbit]

sinergy does provide good service. they are reasonbly priced for certain things, but it is based on time, so it really depends on what you are doing to the car.
i ll certainly go there more often if my mate gets the job there lol

if you wanted to be cheap, should have done it yourself, only takes 2-3 hrs unexperienced to change shockies lol. i found out the hard way :)

[ultra_supra]

mark55, on 29 July 2010 - 11:40 PM, said:

If you ever want to replace your shockies, Sinergy are craploads cheaper than anyone else.

that's because they've had lots of practice taking the suspension in and out of my Supra over the years :D

[MERCURY]

mark55, on 29 July 2010 - 11:40 PM, said:

I got Sinergy to check it when I had some other work done and all they had to do was clean the throttle body, idle speed port and the idle speed controller - something that I thought would have been done in the major service!

Coming from a dealership background a throttle body clean ect is not part of a major service. It's just an add on. "Major service" is just a generic term. Usually intailling oil, air, fuel filter replacement. Cam belt, spark plugs that sort of thing. Can be different from car to car.
Add on job's include engine cleaner, injector cleaner, throttle body cleaner, trans and diff oil replacemant coolant flush, p/s flush, brake fluid flush ect.